Swapping Laos for Indonesia was a master-stroke; Bali is sensational. The beach at Sanur isn't a patch on the Perhentians but the streets and their architecture are a joy to be around. The Balinese people are highly spiritual, going beyond conventional Hinduism. Throughout the day they place palm leaves filled with offerings in the middle of the road, on the pavement, in shops, in cars, even on the beach. The idea is that the gods will take the offerings and look kindly upon the offerer (they also try and bribe the evil gods into being less evil). Trouble is, Bali is home to a huge stray dog population and sometimes the rice or crackers placed in the palm leaves is greedily gobbled up; but apparently the joke is on the dogs as the gods have already exhumed the goodness of the gifts and the dogs are just taking the leftovers. The balinese believe the dogs are the evil ones though, that's why they bark so much (however, being a pooch lover, i'm on the dog's side). In a strange way these offerings really brighten up the streets.
Our stay in Sanur was pretty short and very sweet, apart from the beach we only had time to eat and hit the bars. Balinese food is to die for and incredibly cheap; local dishes for no more than three pound and a steak, for example, for about a fiver. Beer is one pound. The night before we left for Ubud I stayed up 'til 4am and watched the Chelsea/Barca match and had to graciously admit defeat to two of the most smug spaniards i'll ever come across (should have had an early night!).
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